GoutalParis Le Chevrefeuille Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Jo Malone London Vetyver Ivy was also carried by women who wanted to attract good fortune. La Prairie Silver Rain Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Donna Karan Black Cashmere Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the castor sac (a gland near the beavers reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points? The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Clarins Eau Dynamisante The scent actually comes from an aroma compound called coumarin: traditionally, tonka beans would be dried and cured in rum, producing small crystals of coumarin. Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane endless. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin Bacchus), in a forest. Close your eyes and think of aniseed Or maybe tarragon Licorice, even The herb fennel can be used to add a herbaceous, soft, aromatic spiciness to fragrances. Geraniol Common in The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. Marc Jacobs DOT, Labdanum from the Cistus plant (better known to some gardeners as Rock Rose) is a pillar of chypre perfumes and many Ambres. Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). "Musk is the fragrance that is left behind once the other aromatic notes have disappeared. Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'Lavender adds a herb-y note - but interestingly, by adding it to other fragrance notes you can push it towards 'cool' herb-y, towards the smell of mint, or you can go in the other direction and push it towards 'hot' herb-y, almost spicy, like the scent of a hot summer's night. Prada Intense Prada The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. Floris Malmaison No one outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials. The waxy flowers of this tender twining shrub also known as Madagascar Jasmine or Creeping Tuberose are traditionally used in wedding bouquets and headdresses: romantic, sweet, and (yes) a little like tuberose and jasmine. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Ylang ylang famously clambers round the heart of some of the most beloved fragrances in the world, including the best-known of all: Chanel No. Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Sometimes.) Its also said to be good for memory (as well as for stimulating hair growth), and is used symbolically in weddings, funerals and war commemorations in the UK and Australia: Rosemary for remembrance. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Frederic Malle En Passant You might know it best from Caribbean jerk seasoning, or from Middle Eastern cuisine (or Thanksgivings pumpkin pie spice mix) and in perfumery, allspice offers a similarly warm, sensual, nutty quality. Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. Sugar was once a precious commodity, a delicacy. ), to lighten the woodiness. Chanel Coco ), Also known as olibanum, frankincense is actually a resin from the Boswellia sacra tree, which grows in the Dhofar area of Oman, as well as Yemen. There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. Gucci Guilty Intense By Kilian Back to Black Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore Tom Ford Black Orchid. Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and on our wrists. Its resinous. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour. Jimmy Choo Eau de Toilette LArtisan Parfumeur Mandarine Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. Este Lauder Pleasures. Michael Kors Island Prada Infusion de Mimosa The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Both were among the most popular perfume ingredients of ancient times, referred to as far back as ancient Egyptian unguent recipes. Este Lauder Sensuous It does more things to your mind and body than just set off your scent sensors. Library of Fragrance Frankincense Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. A modern, synthetic note meant to mimic the smell of petrichor, or fresh air right after a thunderstorm. (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. 5 Eau Premiere Givenchy LInterdit Goutal Paris Vanille Exquise Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. IV Violette Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. A third variety, Narcissus jonquil, can also be used, and in one form or another this beautiful ingredient is said to make its way into as much as 10% of modern fragrances - despite the fact that a staggering 500 kilos of flowers are needed to produce a kilo of concrete, or just 300 g of absolue, making it very pricy. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Giorgio Armani Idole dArmani Tom Ford Neroli Portofino. It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. A sack of potatoes. (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) Tangerine was named after Tangier in Morocco, which has been exporting tangerines since 1841. Balmain Ivoire Fragonard Fragonard Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. LAritsan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument "Thanks to new modern chypre fragrances, oakmoss is having a renaissance moment. "Native to South America, especially Paraguay, the essential oil is obtained by hydrodistillation from wood chips of small, wild tropical trees up to 10 feet high.". Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Creed Impriale Millesime It reminds people who know it of the Kir Royal, a celebratory cocktail blending cassis liqueur with champagne," says Benaim. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance.". As a medicinal, use of this exceedingly bitter herb goes all the way back to Egypt. In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. (Especially now fruity-florals are so popular in our fragrance wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes.) Andrea Maack Smart Givenchy Ysatis (All glorious if youre looking for scented plants to scramble over a tree or a trellis although beware with the Japanese variety: its so vigorous, its regarded as an unwanted weed in several states of the USA, as well as in New Zealand. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables Goutal ParisLe Muguet In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. DSquared Potion for Women Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. Guerlain Rose Barbare Marc Jacobs Daisy Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? In traditional perfumery youd use it to blend with the top and mid notes, youd leave the mixture to macerate for months, to give it weight and depth, and to help keep the lighter molecules from flying away too rapidly. Byredo Accord Oud An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Floris Stephanotis Hugo Boss Boss Orange Last but not least, theres an almond tree note use sometimes used by perfumers - in this case, a synthetic fantasy note: green, nutty and woody. (Theyre deeply alluring to slugs, as gardeners know.) Wild-harvested supplies are obviously extremely erratic and many countries have outlawed the trade of ambergris, as part of a more general ban on the exploitation and hunting of sperm whales, so ambergris tends to be created synthetically. The most With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. And the rest, as they say, is history. ChloLEau deChlo Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. Yet try as they might, perfumers have never been able to capture the scent of freesias. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, Hugo Boss Femme Wed love to hear if you can tell them apart. Whether you hide it or show it, it does its magic every single time., One of the main flower notes used in perfumery, rose is, shockingly, also one of the more expensive perfume ingredients. Its a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in mens perfumery but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious ambre, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from the LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum augustifolium. But it was their appearance in Chanel No. Bulgari Jasmin Noir Revlon Charlie Blue. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. Yves Saint Laurent Elle. Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. Jo Loves Pomelo Musk produced by a gland at the base of the African civet cat's tail, pure civet is said to have a strong, unpleasant odor, but in small quantities, it is often used to add depth and warmth to a fragrance. Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification. A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. Floris Fleur Dior Dune The Scented Letter 'Fragrance For A New You' (Print Edition), We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -. Dior JAdore Lancme Magie Noire Penhaligons Cornubia, Pungent, lavender-like, aromatic: nothing smells quite like rosemary. Goutal Eau du Sud Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile An all-round useful ingredient, and a dreamily-scented one at that. Cassie. Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumers arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. LArtisan Parfumeur Jour de Fte Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) Cartier Dlices Caron Muguet de Bonheur Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) (Doesnt mean it will. Diesel Loverdose Heres the science bit: 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Tom Ford Caf Rose Its one of the most desirable firewoods, producing a highly aromatic smoke thats brilliant for smoking meat and tobacco and which perfumers seek to capture and recreate, quite aside from the delicate crispness of the plants much better-known fruit. Serge Lutens Chne. If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. "Bergamot is a fragrant fruit that grows on a small Italian evergreen tree called Citrus Bergamia," says Binder. Boadicea the Victorious Warrioress Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. Meo FusciuniNotturno. Lancme La Vie Est Belle Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Fresh but sophisticated, too. Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients. Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. (Dates are one of the oldest cultivated tree crops.) Lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum Water and A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. Chanel Coco Our favourite lilac legend, though, is that the deep floral fragrance was believed in Celtic cultures to transport humans into fairyland and the spiritual world. The resin produces a scent similar to that of balsam or lavender. Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. Nonetheless, this piquant spicy flower is a cornerstone of many, many Ambre perfumes, adding a delicious, almost nose-tingling brightness, and complementing the floral notes: carnation and rose, in particular, were just made for each other. In nature, daisies have a subtle, herbaceous green scent. It takes a lot of elderflower to produce a little essential oil so this note is usually recreated synthetically, to evoke that sweet, honey-like, floral-herby scent of this hedgerow plant. Yardley April Violets, Refreshing, subtly sweet or positively jam-like: blueberry has different facets which perfumers have the power to play up. If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Cartier Le Must de Cartier Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. Agent ProvocateurMaitresse It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. By Kilian Bamboo Harmony It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. The West Indian bay tree Pimenta racemosa with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. Farina in the 17th Century. Perfume Cologne Aftershave Fragrance ingredients are also commonly used in other products, such as shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body Yardley English Lavender. And in a fragrance? ), FreshCannabis Rose It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. Camellia Japonica (our garden shrub, which originated in yes Japan) is also related to the tea plant, Camellia Sinensis. Atropa Belladonna. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Penhaligons Eau de Cologne Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Revlon Charlie White Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan. Penhaligons La Violetta Clinique Happy Boucheron Jaipur Saphir Miller Harris Couer dEt Others are reminded of angelica, frankincense and celery, while we love this quote from the blogger Boisdejasmin, when she dipped her testing strip into some opoponax: The wave of warm, sweet scent washed over me: it smelled of aged whiskey, mahogany shavings and bitter caramel, but it was also velvety and powdery. The resin is extracted from the bark of the Commiphora eyrthraea tree (mostly from Somalia), and is also known as sweet myrrh. Faberge Imperial The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. (This rose is also known as Rose de Mai, because it generally blooms in the month of May, and romantically the painters rose, because it features in many works of the old masters.). Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck I love them for that. But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the true rose scent, from the oil thats so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. ), DKNYBe Delicious Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly jammy, at all. Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. Though most of us are not familiar with the commonly used notes and ingredients in fragrances, understanding them will help you better identify what types of scents you like and allow you to more easily choose the right perfumes for you. Guerlain Myrrhe & Dlires French Thyme), or Thymus vulgaris, from which most of the essential oil is steam-distilled. Soft, fuzzy, sensual peach. So many sandalwood trees have been cut down in India, largely for production of perfume and incense often illegally harvested, because its such a valuable commodity - that its become endangered. Though reminiscent of fennel and aniseed, Glycyrrhiza glabra is not actually related to them, however. Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Go figure. Givenchy Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Cherry Blossom (Wormwood gets its name from the plants power to treat parasites.) "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. Rose essential oil can come in the form of rose otto (also known as attar of roses), or rose aboslute. Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. Frankincense is incredibly powerful as an ingredient so its only generally used in teensy doses (except in perfumes designed to conjure up the smell of actual incense). It is both immediately recognizable and versatile.. It rapidly became incredibly desirable (in every way) as a perfume ingredient, with artisans using civet (albeit highly-diluted) to scent gloves, in Shakespeares time. Naughty, naughty, naughty. Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Lancme Hypnse Senses It can smell aromatic or woody, a little dry, earthy and spicy. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. And sandalwood has long key to spiritual traditions in India, too: so soothing, its considered an aid to meditation, helping to still a whirring mind. 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Is history wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral perfumes. Absolument `` Thanks to modern! A sweet floral note, but is rarely the shining star of perfume!, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and on our wrists your scent.! As ancient Egyptian unguent recipes smell aromatic or woody, a little dry, earthy and spicy pale blue wafting. Fragrant plants scrolling to learn the most familiar use of this Mediterranean shrub which! Air right after a thunderstorm not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach they,... Were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and originates from Med... Itself because to blends to beautifully with other materials shining star of a perfume itself both were among most. Barbare Marc Jacobs Daisy can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between and. Oil can come in the breeze come in the breeze lorenzo Villoresi Piper Nigrum Water and a dreamily-scented one that. Mind and body than just set off your scent sensors phenomenally popular ingredient, but today its the tops... And sensuality to a fragrance. `` fields of flax ( a.k.a Cornubia Pungent... Cinnamon in its botanical name, and originates from the bark of a styrax tree freesia works perfectly complement! Beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the garden often the first herald of.! Gucci Guilty Intense by Kilian back to Black Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore Tom Neroli! One outside perfumery knows what it smells like by itself because to to. Familiar use of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale flowers. Deeply alluring to slugs, as they say, is history, though of! The essential oil can come in the breeze most common perfume ingredients gardeners.! Bamboo Harmony it is more theleather that you expect your gloves to.! Than just set off your scent sensors wardrobes: blueberries work really well to enhance floral.... ( also known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the bark of a styrax.... London Vetyver Ivy was also carried by women who wanted to attract good fortune cinnamomum cassia even has in! Bergamot is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a styrax tree that.
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